Pump Street Bakery
UK, Grenada, Crayfish Bay, 70%
I like the details. They’re important. That’s why I love all the info on Pump Street Bakery’s Exclusive Estate 70% from the 2014 Harvest from Crayfish Bay Organic Estate on Grenada: batch #5105. You could hardly sound more official. Or be more informative. Plus the bar has plenty of laurels.
I can appreciate a chocolate bar that looks and eats like the old fashioned chocolate bar of my imagination. The size, texture and color here are basically that; it has the look and feel of chocolate that is made to eat. Made with extra cocoa butter (and a low 70%) it’s very easy to put away. Binge eat. Which is something I do find with many UK makers: there is a focus on pure pleasure, maximum chocolatey-ness and copious richness.
The aroma is bashful but has the same sour and vegetal elements that I found in the flavor. It took a bit of effort to detangle what I was smelling but cranberries and pineapple came to mind, fruits with sharp flavors and dense, sweet aromas. There is also a bitterness that reminded me of edible plant greens like dandelion leaves.
The main flavor figures in cocoa and tahini, both of which are mellow and smooth and make for good eating with no objections. It’s a mild and even chocolate pudding-esque background that just hangs around. Even that soft cranberry bite on the nose faded away, the bar wasn’t tannic or sour to me at all. The finish on this bar is really worth appreciating. It’s smooth, long, and even in flavor.
Giving it that easy-to-eat texture and long finish is the extra cocoa butter, you can feel the slight coolness of the extra fat in your mouth. (I’m not arguing – it’s extra fat so of course I want that.) It makes for a bar with a lot of pleasing consistency from start to finish. Not complex, but very enjoyable.
There’s a classic taste and feel to this bar that’s refined and easy to enjoy. I plowed through it in record time so consider yourself warned. With all the info on the packaging as well a Pump Street Bakery vertical tasting would be a welcome way to get into UK craft chocolate.
Being the son of a chocolatier Chris has always enjoyed talking about chocolate as much as he loves eating it. He’s an artist and designer as well as a co-founder of the Chocolate Codex.